Saturday 17 May 2014

Oilean Chleire / Cape Clear Island : see a kaleidoscope of ocean and sky walking on Ireland's southernmost island

  • Ferry services to island from Baltimore (all year) & Schull (summer only) - 45 mins
  • Compact island 3 miles long by 1 mile wide, ideal for walking
  • Main walking route on surfaced (v. quiet) roads, with optional marked trails
  • Pub, restaurant, shop and heritage / maritime centres on island
  • Some steep climbing on main route (do anti-clockwise to ameliorate this)
  • Goat-farm with its shop can be visited : goats can be visited, are very tame
  • Spectacular views of Roaringwater Bay and Mizen peninsula
  • Archaeological and ornithological attractions abound on the island
  • Main route approx 2.75 miles / 4.5 kms long

 Travel out to Oilean Chleire / Cape Clear Island in the south-west of County Cork on a sunny summer's day, and you'll run out of superlatives. There's something indefinable about this island, a part of the West Cork Gaeltacht, that makes it a very special place to visit.

 Now is a good time to visit, as Oilean Chleire needs the support of visitors as it took quite a battering in the savage storms earlier this year. The quay and roads in the North Harbour were damaged, and the chipper van was washed away. Those problems have been sorted out, and Cape is open for business.

 Your ferry will deliver you into the North Harbour, a narrow-mouthed cleft between cliffs which opens out into a haven with beach and seaside restaurant. Make sure to check your boat's return times, especially to Schull which has fewer sailings. You should aim to arrive in the morning, and leave by late afternoon. Bring your own picnic, as there aren't food outlets spread across the island, or buy food at the island shop or restaurant. See capeclearferries.com for all ferry info.

 The maritime centre on the harbour, and the church of Naomh Ciaran (St Kieran), are worth visiting by the harbour. Then follow around the harbour to the left, passing the restaurant, and strike up the hill to your right (for an anti-clockwise circuit of the island - a glance at the very steep hill to your left shows why we are doing this.)

 This road takes you to a low height, where you gain a view of the beautiful South Harbour below you. In warm sunny weather, this bay has the look of a Greek cove, albeit one with a stony beach. A turning to the right up a steep hill offers the option of walking by Lough Erral and further out for views of the Fastnet lighthouse, but unless taking this you continue on to the shore of South Harbour.

 The road takes you to the right around the harbour's shore, and then, at an old schoolhouse, you take a left to continue your circuit. The stone walls, and abundant wild flowers, along the walk give a feeling of peace and tranquillity. After a kilometre along this route, you'll pick up signs to the right for the island trails, one of which brings you to the mouth of the South harbour. If you've time, this is well worth doing.

 Follow the road as it curves around to the left, bringing you to a stunning view over Roaringwater Bay with its many islands, and to the Mizen peninsula beyond. Continue, and take a left as you descend the hill, at a T-junction (these roads are extremely quiet!). Follow along the road, passing the island church and heritage centre, with a detour to the ancient marriage stone if wished. Further on, you can visit the goat farm, its shop too and see them being milked (up till noon).

 Continue down a steep hill, and you're back at the harbour, for refreshments. Bonne voyage!



Saturday 3 May 2014

Gortnabinna : Stunning mountain road walk with hill climb included

This varied country lane and mountain walk follows part of the Sli Gaeltacht Muscrai, which is part of the national trail the Beara-Breifne Way.
  • Start-point 60 kms by road from Cork City
  • Plenty of parking available
  • First 3 kms of walk is along road, which is very quiet and safe (with care)
  • Option of ascent of Mweelin mountain on good track, 500 m vertical ascent
  • Otherwise, turn right to climb the manageable (if slightly boggy) Carrigalougha
  • Continue over Carrigalougha to join the Sli Gaeltacht Mucrai track on other side
  • Beautiful views from Carrigalougha, and of the Paps from top of Sli Muscrai
  • Descent on good track with some pretty scenery to the start-point
  • Option at the end to visit a Bronze Age Wedge Tomb only recently recorded

The start-point for this walk, which can be reached by car or by a (strenuous) cycle ride (the start-point is at 300m above sea level), is found by coming out of Macroom on the Killarney direction, and in about 7.5 kms from Macroom you will come round a bend and see the Halfway (also called the Mons) Bar on your left. Turn left here, and it's approx 13 kms from here to the start-point. Pass through Reidh na Doiri (Reananiree), and about 5 kms after it you reach the summit of the pass called the 'Mouth of the Glen'.

When you reach the very summit, just continue a few yards, and a road branches off to your left, signed for Kenmare  and Kilgarvan, though signs are regularly falling down or being stolen (for bars abroad!). Park over on the right in the layby, and set off up the road. Make sure you're wearing waterproof boots for the mountain stretch.

Follow this road as it curves around the mountain for about 3 kms. The views to the right towards Ballingeary and its surrounding mountains, including Gugan Barra, are beautiful (just imagine these hills festooned with 150m wind turbines, it might come to pass). Eventually approach the top of another mountain pass, where the optional extra of a 2km walk up a steep track brings you to the summit of Mweelin (this is for the very fit), but this is just an extra option.

Otherwise, continue on the walk we've planned out, crossing the fence just near the dilapidated gate on the right (100m before you reach the top of the pass), which brings you into the boggy margins of a field. Follow a smoothed grass track which leads around to the right up through the field. You are heading for the top of Carrigalougha mountain, which you can see above you. Follow a strip of green grass which leads up through the rougher ground above, and cross a fence. There is a ridge running away from you on the left, but head for the next ridge to your right, which leads you to the summit, with its panoramic views (soon to be despoiled by wind farms, an outrage in this beautiful place).

For the descent, make your way over to the right, and, looking ahead, plot your way across wet ground to a rocky bluff across from it. Follow the edge of the bluff to your right, keeping a small valley edge just to your right. Cross a fence and you'll pick up an indistinct track. This leads you down to the top of the Sli Gaeltacht Muscrai track at Rath, with lovely views towards Cuil Aodh and the Paps.

Turn right here, and it's less than 2 kms down a good track to the road, with a lively stream accompanying you later on. Where the track meets the road, only 0.5 kms from your car or bike, a detour into the field on the left and up the hill above brings you to a well-preserved wedge tomb.

A view of the Bronze Age wedge-tomb at Gortnabinna, with its beautiful mountain views


Monday 28 April 2014

Lissard : Varied woodland and lakeside trails near Skibbereen



Beautiful woodland walks lead down to this peaceful lake

  • Free entry to extensive woodland and beautiful gardens
  • Start-point just 1.5 kms outside Skibbereen town
  • Approx 3 to 7 km walks available, choose route at info board
  • Plenty room to park bikes and cars
  • Mostly level walking, hills can be bypassed, suitable for anyone
  • Initial trails on road and through woods
  • Trail passes by pond garden then on to lakeside garden
  • Options include climbing hillside garden, before return to car park

 This is another of Ireland's hidden gems, a beautiful garden created around an old estate (with country house) woodland and lake. And it's open to the public all year round, except I believe for rare occasions when the house is let out for a function, and it's free of charge.

 From Skibbereen, take the turning left after LIDL for Castletownshend, the R596, and in less than a kilometre the gates of Lissard Country Estate appear on the right. You need to park here at the gate, and there's plenty of room. Then set off down the drive, having first consulted the information boards at the car park, which are very helpful.

 The information boards will show you the different routes, but I would suggest your first destination (by whichever route you choose, but try to take in the ponds on the way) should be the lake. Your walk will wind you down through woodland to the lake shore, where a stone-flagged path leads you to seats by a stone pier at the lakeside. Especially if you have good weather, the view from here as you sit by the lake is superb. It is an excellent place for a mid-walk picnic.

 Lissard Estate prides itself on its 'garden rooms', which have different themes such as lakeside, waterfall, woodland, etc. There is also an old hilltop walled garden. It is simply a place to explore at your leisure, and if you have the time, I would say try to see all of it, as it's just so good. There is a garden art work called 'The Irish Sky Garden', created by artist James Murrell, which I haven't yet got to see, but you can take a guided tour to it for 5 euros. The tours are popular, as the art work is so admired by garden enthusiasts and garden designers internationally. I'm not sure if the 'Irish Sky Garden' is also open for no charge to visitors, say in the evening, but I'm trying to find out.

 Because of the dense woodland, the number of streams cascading through them and the imaginative and quite Robinsonian gardens created around them, there is so much interest and variety at Lissard to keep you exploring for an afternoon. They also have festivals in summer. In a time when private gardens are rarely open free to the public, this beautiful estate, created to showcase the variety and excellence of Irish gardens and nature, is a must-visit for any walker and nature-lover. And in almost any weather conditions, but especially on a sunny day or evening, it's a supremely romantic place.

Saturday 26 April 2014

Carrigfadda : A looped walk over a high hill in West Cork for superb coastal views


This photo of Carrigfadda Hill Walk is courtesy of TripAdvisor
This popular family walk near Rosscarbery climbs a low mountain for spectacular coastal views
  • 14 kms drive from Dunmanway, no more than one hour's drive from Cork City
  • Parking either at church for longer walk, or at forest car-park for looped hill-walk
  • First section of walk is up steep section of steps, so only for the fit
  • Well-defined, surfaced path climbs up through woodland, steep near the top
  • Marian cross near the summit, trig point on summit ridge
  • Superb panoramic views of West Cork coast and interior from summit ridge.
  • Views extend from Old Head of Kinsale (east) to Mizen peninsula (west)
  • Descend via looped path through woodland, adding interest and variety

 The start-point for this walk is at Carrigfadda church, or, if you prefer, at a car-park higher up the hill and nearer to the forest. Driving out of Dunmanway on the R599 towards Clonakilty, after 5.6 kms you turn right for Reenascreena, and in approx another 5 kms, where the road to Reenascreena is a turn off to the left, you keep straight on for at least another 1.5 kms until you reach Carrigfadda church on your right. There is an information board here which shows a map of the trail, and there are also public toilets.

 It is possible to park here, and walk up to the start of the looped walk from here, but it's nearly 2.5 kms each way along a narrow road (with some lively-looking dogs along the way!) to reach the start of the looped forest walk (which in itself is about 4 kms length in total). Unless you have endless time, I'd recommend driving up to the start of the looped walk, at the forest car-park. This means continuing past the church, and taking the next small lane to the right. Take care, and go slow, on this minor road, as the surface isn't great, and you may have to pass other cars / tractors (it's very narrow).

 Just keep driving straight up, passing a narrow turn to the right, and you'll come to a car-park for the Coillte forest, with information sign. Park here, and use the info board to orientate yourself as to your route. The trail starts at the right hand corner of the car-park, soon climbing steeply up a long series of steps which were quite some feat of construction. The views open up behind you, and are worth savouring as you reach the top of the steps.

 When the steps come to an end, the path leads you into forest, where you must take a right turn for the quickest approach to the summit (you can go straight on via the woods if you want a gentler approach to the summit, reversing the looped walk). Taking the right turn, the path twists around and crosses a fence until you are just below the summit of Carrigfadda hill (Carrigfadda seems to translate as 'the long rock'). You'll see the ridge with the Marian Cross and trig point above to your right. A small path takes you looping up to the summit.

 You are at 313m, the highest point along this section of the West Cork coast, and the views stretch from the Old Head of Kinsale in the east to the Mizen, Sheep's Head and Beara peninsulas in the west, and northwards you'll see all the inland mountains of West Cork. Nowen Hill and Shehy More, on which I'll post information, soon, are quite close and easily visible to the north.

 Returning from the ridge to the path, continue in the direction you were going in, and the path leads you behind the ridge, then loops back round into the forest, to bring you back to the point where the two paths diverged earlier on. You then descend the steps, taking care as the steps are high, to reach the car-park.

 This a well-laid out trail, and this looped section is just under 4 kms long. Choose a clear day so you can enjoy the beautiful coastal views.

Tuesday 22 April 2014

Coomloughra and Carrantuohil : the most beautiful ridge and mountain walk in Ireland



This northern view of the Reeks shows the splendid ridge containing Ireland's highest mountains

  • Some parking space at start-point, may need to park slightly further away
  • Very steep initial stretch on Hydro Road, pace yourself here
  • Long pull up to Caher is dry, bog-free (almost), gets very steep
  • Some steep. rocky sections over three peaks of Caher
  • A long, fairly steep climb to summit of Carrantuohill, 'roof of Ireland'
  • Option here to return by same route, or continue to Hag's Glen
  • A long mountain walk, needs clear weather and long summer's day
  • Distinctive and rare mountain flora, especially on Carrantuohill
  • Amazing mountain views, especially into Coomloughra and down Iveragh
  • Highest mountains in Ireland, recommended to walk in group of four (minimum)
  • Please consult Kerry Mountain Rescue site for safety guidance and advice

 I want to give an overview here of the route up the Hydro Road to the Reeks, in Kerry. I'm straying slightly out of the Co. Cork area here, but I know this is a mountain range that anyone interested in hill-walking in Ireland will be interested in.

 For more detailed information on routes, I'd recommend reading or consulting (among others) the book 'Carrantohill and the MacGillyCuddy's Reeks' by Jim Ryan (Collins Press). I'm just trying to give a few pointers here, based on my own experience.

 I personally found the route that goes up the Hydro Road (from the Glencar side of the Reeks) the best way up onto the mountains. The traditional access route onto Carrantuohill, the Devil's Ladder, is extremely eroded, and in the past the large number of walkers using it has created a risk of rock fall injury for walkers. By contrast, the Hydro Road access to the Reeks is less used, and gives a longer, somewhat gentler and more satisfying mountain walk.

 The start-point is found by driving or cycling out the minor road to the Gap of Dunloe from Killarney, and instead of turning for the Gap, continue on towards Beaufort along the small road that runs directly below the mountains. Go through Beaufort, and after some miles, as you've passed the Reeks ridge, there is a turn right for Killorglin. Keep left here, and it is over 5 kms from here to the start-point. As the long ridge below Skregbeg comes into view on your left, you might spot a road running straight up and then below its flank. This is your track, the 'Hydro Road'. Look out for a wide semi-circular farm entrance on the right just before the 'Hydro Road' turning on the right. One car might fit in the farm entrance, or a couple more at parking at the 'Hydro Road' entrance. Otherwise park a little up the road (avoid leaving anything valuable visible in the car, as always).

 Make sure to allow plenty of time for this walk. I ascended Caher and Carrantuohill from this point, and the round trip to Carrantuohill took me eight hours, in mid-July. If taking a longer option, allow more time. Always aim to be off the mountain by sunset, if you're not an equipped night-walker.

 The initial stretch of the 'Hydro Road', an access road for the ill-advised hydroelectric scheme on Lough Eighter, helpfully at least surfaced in concrete, is extremely steep. Only those with good fitness should attempt this mountain walk, and this very steep section lets you know this. Even the ascent to the highest summit of Caher (your first peak) on this route involves about 900 m of ascent.
So pace yourself on this first steep section, don't wear yourself out for later. (At least the Hydro Road is a vast improvement on the previous access from this point, which could involve trudging around boggy fields).

 The initial section of the Hydro Road climbs straight up the hillside, then turns right to run almost on the level, then gently climbing under the ridge above. It's now a rough track at this point, and could be wet after wet weather. Keep on, and eventually you come to the bridge over the fast-flowing river that flows out of Lough Eighter. Cross and keep up the track till you emerge beside the lake, and the (I think) disfiguring concrete structures connected to the hydroelectric scheme. Ignoring them, enjoy the view over the lake to three-summited Caher and to the left of it Carrantuohil, and then Beenkeragh, the three highest summits in Ireland.

 Looking to your right, you see a slope leading to a plateau which sweeps to the left, and you need to make your way straight from the lake's side straight up to the edge of this plateau. You mau encounter some boggy ground on the way up and on top, so plan your route by looking well ahead. From the edge of the plateau, your route will be up onto the edge of the glacial corrie of Coomloughra, all the way to the first peak of Caher. You will keep to the edge of the cliffs / steep slopes that edge the great coum (glacial hollow), and the route becomes very steep in places. It's advisable to get into practice for a couple of weeks before you undertake this climb, with steep hill-climbing exercises.

 The first peak of Caher, a true peak if ever there was one, at well over 900 m in height, is your first waymark. Just follow the cliffline of Caher to the left, keeping clear of its dangerous edges, to its next higher peak, at 1001 m, and savour the vertiginous views into Coomloughra and its trapped hour-glass lakes. Then over the third peak of Caher, over steep and rocky ground, with steep falls right to the lake at Curraghmore. Take extreme care along this whole section.

 Eventually, you reach the saddle or col between Caher and Carrantuohil, and you way up to the summit of Carrantuohil is clear before you, a long and steep enough climb over increasingly bare and alpine-like rock, with beautiful alpine (and other) mountain flora visible in the crevices and amongst the stones. Reaching the summit, you're at 1041 m, highest point in Ireland, with staggering views. One day I climbed here, and could see from Cork Airport (its white buildings) in the east, to An Blascaod Mor in the west, almost the whole expanse of Munster.

 Now I will detail the options from the summit of Carrantuohil, either returning by the same route to where you parked your bike or car, descending to the Kerry Way by way of Curraghmore or continuing to the Hag's Glen via the Zig-Zags. The second and third options here will necessitate you parking a second car at the access point in each of those directions.

 I've avoided recommending a descent via the Devil's Ladder into the Hag's Glen, as that route is so eroded and therefore quite an unsafe and unpleasant descent. If you wish to head down into the Hag's Glen, which makes this more of a loop walk, head down from Carrantuohil in an easterly direction, till you reach the col below where the Devil's Ladder branches off to the left.

 Ascending eastwards from here will bring you to the summit of Cnoc na Toinne, which is where the route known as the Zig-Zags descends into the Hag's Glen, and from where you can walk down to Cronin's Yard refreshment and resource centre, to your waiting second car. I won't give full details of the Zig-Zag descent here, except to say it's one of the safest descents on the Reeks. I want to do a separate post on it very shortly. Details on the route can be found on activeme.ie or in Jim Ryan's book 'Carrantuohil and McGillycuddy's Reeks'.

 Another descent from Carrantuohil, to extend your walk, involves returning to Caher, and descending from there to Curraghmore and thence to the Kerry Way path. The path then takes you on to a place (near Lough Acoose), where a second car can have been parked. Be aware that the descent from Caher to Curraghmore is very steep, and only for very fit and experienced hillwalkers.

 Please note that I'm only giving an overview of routes here, based on personal experience. These can be dangerous mountains, and have a high accident rate. Please consult detailed route maps and guides, and take all safety advice, before setting out.











Saturday 19 April 2014

Knockboy : the adventure of climbing the highest mountain in Cork for astounding views


Photo: Andy Howell flickr.com
This view of the cliffs of Caoinkeen shows the wild country around Cork's highest summit

  • Start-point can be reached by car or bicycle, adequate parking
  • Beautiful walk-in up road to Priest's Leap pass, note this is very steep at times
  • No way-markers, initial climb over boggy ground then rocky slope
  • Beautiful Lough Boy half-way up, ideal picnic stop
  • Recommended route up to south of the lake, picking your way over bog and rock
  • A true reward for your effort in a panorama of the south-west, incl. the Reeks
  • A long road climb, following by rough mountain walking, so good fitness needed

 At 706m, Knockboy / Cnoc Bhui ('the yellow hill') is the highest point in County Cork, with its summit sitting astride the border with Kerry around 16km to the north of Bantry. Guides will often point you further west on the Beara peninsula in your search for hills to climb, but I have a soft spot for Knockboy, which guards its secrets closely, sitting in splendid isolation above the mountain pass known as the Priest's Leap Road. It's also a mountain climb that is suitable for those who prefer hill-walking to true mountain-climbing, as there is no need to use your hands (in the sense of scrambling up steep rocky slopes for long stretches). But due to its height, it's still a long walk requiring plenty of energy and effort.

 Whether driving or cycling, if coming from the Bantry / Cork direction, you come out of Bantry towards Glengariff, keep on past the turn for Macroom and Gugan Barra, and at the next deep inlet of the sea, you'll see a turn to the right for Coomhola and Kilgarvan. Cross the bridge before turning right, and in a short while you'll come to a turn to the left for 'The Priest's Leap' (it's the first left you come to). The road you want goes up and to the right, and climbs steadily amongst farms. This road is a long climb, so bear this is mind if cycling (the pass itself is at higher than 470m, that's as high as you can drive or cycle).

 As you leave the last farm behind, the road climbs up into real mountain country, and narrows. You will see below on your left the narrowing valley above which the road will lead you. I recommend that, as the road becomes a one-car width road, you look for somewhere to park on the right. It's better to park as low down the route as possible, because if you meet a car higher up, it means one of you reversing for hundreds of metres, as there are few passing places. I saw a removal van coming over this road once, all I can say is, My God, were they lost!

 Make sure to bring water and some food with you, because it's 1.5km of walking up the road from here to the pass, and another 2.5-3km over the rough mountain to the summit. Walk straight up the road, which gets quite a few walkers in summer, and enjoy the views into the valley on your left, a classic U-shaped glaciated valley, with its fast-flowing river foaming over the rocks.

 There is a final steep push up to the summit of the pass, just below the height on the left called The Priest's Leap (marked with a cross), concerning which there are some highly questionable legends. From the road's summit, in clear weather there can be stunning views to the north-west of the Mountains of Iveragh, particularly the great mountain wall that is the Reeks.

 From the road's highest point, you must strike out to your right across the bog, and bring waterproof boots, and a stick to test the often wet ground (I'd avoid this walk if ground is likely to be very wet. Wait for a dry spell). You are aiming just to the right of the summit of the highest rocky hill you can see across the boggy ground, to your north-east. Take care on this boggy ground, looking ahead to plan a dry route (or otherwise you'll be doubling back on yourself endlessly) and aiming for the point I mentioned. Take care on the steep, rock-strewn ground as you climb the first hill, as it's easy to trip here.

 Once you come over the shoulder of the hill, you'll see Lough Boy in its hollow below, and Knockboy rising beyond, with another 150m in height to be climbed before you reach the summit. Some guide-books recommend passing Lough Boy on the left-hand-side (the north-west) from here, but I would recommend passing the lake to the right-hand side (the south-east side) where the river flows out. In summer, this is a great spot for dragonfly, which love these unpolluted lakes. I find the other route, and other walkers have confirmed this, involves a lot of boggy ground, and crossing and re-crossing a fence.

 The route I've chosen involves crossing the stream flowing out from the lake, and aiming for one of the rib-like ridges running gradually up towards the mountain's summit. Way-markers here would be a great help, but you'll need to pick your own route, avoiding the boggy ground as much as possible between the rocky ridges. Make as much of your way as you can up the dry ridges, and several times you have to cross level, wet ground to get to the next ridge. You have to cross two wet stretches before you reach a great rocky ridge running up diagonally towards the summit (which you can't see till you get there!). Please memorise the whole of your route up, using noticeable landmarks, and even write it down, as this makes descent much easier.

 This great ridge has large patches of bare rock, which make the ascent much easier and more pleasurable, after all the bog! After climbing for a while, you'll see a large outcrop of rock above you, where it seems you can't go any higher. Head up here, and shortly you'll be at the summit with its trig point. The colours up here will amaze you, the light and shade playing over the panorama of Kerry and West Cork. You'll see all of Bantry Bay, the Sheep's Head, the Mizen peninsula, and the inland Shehy mountains. You can see right down the Beara peninsula. In clear weather I've seen the white buildings around Cork airport, on their hill, many kilometres away.

 Return by the same route, taking care on rock and wet ground.





Thursday 17 April 2014

Climb a waymarked trail up scenic Conigar mountain near Gougane Barra



This mountain climb gives varied views of the stunning lake and valley at Gugan Barra

  • Walk begins from near Gougane Barra hotel, plenty of parking available
  • Signposted walk, with waymarker posts along the way
  • Initial climb along good farm track, with beautiful views of lake
  • Trail continues onto rough mountain, hillwalking experience / fitness essential
  • Superb views of mountains, valleys and Gugan Barra from higher sections
  • Two very distinctive lakes near the summit of the walk, handy picnic stop
  • Can be very wet, sometimes on lower sections, always higher up - so good boots
  • Initial track and higher mountain route very steep, and wet, great care to be taken


 Since the Gugan Barra Forest Park is closed at present, this short section of the Beara-Breifne Way at Gugan Barra is a walk that you can still undertake there, beginning from near the hotel. Just drive or cycle past the hotel, passing the entrance to the island and the oratory (church) on the right, and just afterwards you'll see the unusual thatched toilets on your left (winner of Toilet of the Year award some years ago). You can park on the left just past the toilets, or, if it's busy there, just park by the gate to the island.

 You'll see a sign pointing up the path beside the toilet, and the path (I believe) is part of the national Beara-Breifne Way, the local Sli Gaeltacht Mhuscrai and the themed O' Sullivan Beare walk. Just walk up here, cross the stile, and continue up. The first section here can have water running across it, so wear good waterproof boots and look well ahead to pick your route. The track is quite sound, and ziz-zags up the hill. Look out for the yellow arrows on the waymark signs, these will help you keep on the right path, especially higher up.

 As you climb, the views to your left over Gugan Barra lake and its island oratory are breathtaking. As part of the Forest Park appears below you, the path becomes steeper (you could just walk to here and back, just over 1 km each way, if you want a gentler walk), and follow the steep track till it finishes at a stile.

 Climbing over, you'll see that you are now on rough hill land. Follow the arrow waymarkers up to your left, crossing the stream where it looks most sensible. If there has been a period of wet weather, you'll want to detour around sections of the trail which go over boggy ground. I'd suggest picking your own route over dry rocky ground to your left, but don't stray too far from the route which hugs the fence on your left, or you'll be doubling back. Also take care over the rocky ground, as there can be sudden drops and very steep sections. In fact, I'd say that in most conditions you should avoid the boggy stretches.

 The way up is quite clear, apart from these detours, and you emerge onto a beautiful ridge at the top, upon which lie two lakes, one large, one small, ideal for a picnic stop. Where the path is signed south over a fence, to Carriganass and Kealkil, you can either cross there and continue to Kealkil (in which case you'll need either to be picked up there by car or to have left a second car parked there), or climb straight ahead and explore Conigar mountain.  When the Forest Park re-opens (not till at least June, I believe), it will be possible again to continue on with a circular walk over the edge of Conigar's plateau, with the cliffs of Maolach to your right, across the cleft of Poll (where Tom Barry's flying column escaped from the British army at dead of night) and around the head of Com Rua above Gugan Barra, coming down by Sli Sleibhte into the forest, and hence back to your car. Even so, you can at the moment climb up onto Conigar, enjoying the panoramic views into Com Rua below, and as far as the Reeks.

 Saturday 19th April sees a pilgrim walk from Drimoleague to Gugan Barra, it's pilgrim paths day. In fact, a 2-day walk with accomodation starts on Good Friday at 8pm. See pilgrimpath.ie for details of Sli Fhionn Narra or topoftherock.ie.